Madagascar's RN7: A Journey Through Diverse Landscapes and Lemur Habitats

Explore Madagascar's RN7, a route connecting varied landscapes from central highlands to rainforests, offering opportunities to observe endemic lemur species and unique ecosystems.

Madagascar, an island nation known for its unique biodiversity, offers a remarkable travel experience along its RN7 route. This journey provides an opportunity to witness the island's diverse landscapes and encounter its endemic wildlife, particularly lemurs, which are found nowhere else in the wild.

Navigating Madagascar's RN7

The BBC's approximately 2,500 km (1,553-mile) road trip starts in Antananarivo and follows the RN7 through rainforests, rice paddies and canyons before leaving that road to reach the west coast. That distance describes the full itinerary, not the length of RN7. This route links several national parks and reserves, making it a way to experience Madagascar's natural heritage. For those considering this journey, renting a 4x4 vehicle is recommended, and camping gear can also be arranged. The dry season, from May to October, is suggested as the best time to undertake this trip.

Along the RN7, the landscape transforms from the bustling capital to the central highlands, where two-storey *trano gasy* homes, constructed from red earthen bricks, are set against expansive rice paddies. The journey continues through rolling green hills and terraced valleys, where long-horned zebu can be seen grazing.

Encountering Madagascar's Lemurs

Madagascar is home to over 110 identified lemur species, many of which are restricted to specific forest pockets. The RN7 route offers several key stops for lemur sightings without extensive detours from the tarmac. These include Mitsinjo Reserve, Anja Reserve, Ranomafana National Park, and Isalo National Park.

In Ranomafana National Park, a dense jungle environment, visitors may encounter red-bellied lemurs, greater bamboo lemurs, and the rare golden bamboo lemurs, which subsist on giant bamboo containing quantities of cyanide. Guides, who are required in Madagascar's national parks and available at park entrances, can assist in locating these species.

Further south, Anja Community Reserve provides opportunities to observe ring-tailed lemurs among chunky boulders. Isalo National Park, with its ruiniform plateau and jagged canyons, is another significant stop where Verreaux's sifaka, known for their distinctive sideways gait, can be found.

Beyond the Tarmac: Tsingy de Bemaraha

While the RN7 offers a substantial journey on paved roads, reaching destinations like Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park on the west coast requires departing the tarmac. This segment of the journey involves traversing rougher roads, including river crossings and mud pits. For such challenging stretches, hiring a local *pisteur* – a guide knowledgeable about the terrain – is advisable. These guides can navigate through dirt tracks, isolated communities, and areas without reliable GPS or maps.

Tsingy de Bemaraha is characterised by its unique stone forests, which are home to endemic lemurs. Visitors can explore these UNESCO-listed limestone pinnacles, using via ferrata lines to search for species such as aye-ayes, stump-tailed chameleons, and tiny leaf chameleons.

Another notable stop off the RN7, particularly for nocturnal wildlife, is Kirindy Reserve. Here, with the aid of a headlamp, one might spot Madame Berthe's mouse lemurs, red-tailed sportive lemurs, and even the fossa, Madagascar's largest predator.

Planning Your Madagascar Journey

An independent road trip through Madagascar, while offering flexibility, often relies on local support. National park guides, *pisteurs*, and local communities play a role in making such a journey possible. The experience provides a deep immersion into Madagascar's natural beauty and its conservation challenges, as shrinking forests continue to impact lemur habitats.

Practical Planning Checklist:

* **Vehicle:** Rent a 4x4 vehicle.
* **Equipment:** Consider renting camping gear.
* **Timing:** Plan your trip during the dry season (May to October).
* **Guides:** Be prepared to hire local guides for national parks and *pisteurs* for off-tarmac routes.
* **Reserve Visits:** Check the route and access arrangements for each named reserve, including Mitsinjo, Anja, Ranomafana and Isalo; not every stop is on RN7.